Kasane no irome (the color combinations for kimono) (襲の色目)
Kasane no irome is a list of the color combinations in wearing kimono in layers, and was used when women decided the colors of uchigi (itsutsuginu, or in five layers) for court costumes.
(Reference: Masasuke costume selection)
(See 'Oriiro' for the color combination produced by different colored warp and woof, and 'Irome' for the color combination produced by different colored outer cloth and lining for kariginu.)
The silk cloth in those days was so thin that the color of the lining could be seen through the outer side of the cloth, which made a unique, beautiful tone.
In the following list, each headword represents the time for wearing, the words in bold letters represent the names, and the sequence of the following words shows the sequence of the colors from the outer cloth to the inner cloth, in the order of the color of outer material and (the color of lining), and the last single word means the color of hitoe (no lining).
Other descriptions about the colors, names, and the like are parenthesized at the end of each line.
Basic knowledge
In ancient and medieval times, the color of blue was made by dyeing with Amur cork or other materials for bottoming and with indigo for topping. The color was slightly bluish green. The present color of blue was called hanada.
Suo color
This color is made by dyeing with suo, or Caesalpinia sappan, which is a tropical plant. Dark suo is dark reddish purple, normal suo is pink verging on brilliant reddish purple, and light suo is purplish pink.
Moegi
Yellowish green. This color was considered the color for young people from the feeling of this word. The version of kasane (color combination) having moegi is often more suitable for young people than the version having blue, even if the names of kasane have the same name.
Kobai
There are various views about this color, but it is believed to have been slightly purplish dark pink like the color of red ume (Japanese apricot) blossom in about the Heian period.
Kuchiba
Kuchiba refers to the color of yellow fallen leaves, and it was brilliant reddish yellow in the Heian period.